Take me to the river

Last Sunday Ted, Vic and I travelled to Steung Treng, a province about 300 kilometers northeast of Phnom Penh. It was a business trip for Ted and I; we were there to supervise the field work for a study we’re working on. Vic, fresh from Manila, decided to tag along because he hasn’t been to this province. I haven’t been to Steung Treng before as well, so the trip was a welcome one.

The survey team rented a van while the three of us rented a car. We left Phnom Penh at 7AM, and the 6-hour drive took us past the provinces of Kandal, Kampong Cham, and Kratie. Vic brought some fried crickets and a tarantula in Kampong Cham and tried to eat them. I have eaten crickets in the Philippines (I’m from Pampanga) and I’ve also eaten a tarantula years ago, upon the prodding of my ex Kimrun. I didn’t want to try it again. Ted and I munched on cashew nuts, banana chips, and spiced tamarind instead. In Kampong Cham we also saw the Khmer equivalent of the bayanihan. A whole house was being moved. The difference from the Filipino style was this house was mounted on carts and pushed, not carried, to its destination.

We arrived in Steung Treng at around 1PM, and after a quick lunch we walked around the town center. Steung Treng is located on a high sandy bank overlooking the Mekong River, where it is joined by the Se Kong River. We went to the riverside and looked at the port. When we got tired walking we bought fruits and went back to our guest house and waited for Poeu (our survey monitor who knows the place) to pick us up for a late afternoon drive. Steung Treng is also about 40km south of the Laos border. We had brought our passports in case we get hit by wanderlust and decide to cross the border.

Poeu arrived at half-past four and we went to the bridge that crossed the Sae San River, towards the border to Laos. The bridge was new, built through aid from China. From afar, it reminded me of the bridge in Koh Kong that led also to another border crossing (Thailand). When we got there, however, I noted that that the bridge only had 2 lanes. The bridge in Koh Kong had 2 lanes also but it had 2 pedestrian/bicycle lanes on each side, plus viewing decks. The lack of viewing deck did not deter people (including us) from stopping by and looking at the view, which was quite nice. We took pictures as well.

For dinner we had some Laotian noodles, which was really delicious when eaten with iced coffee with milk. Steung Treng is also famous for its coffee. Before heading back to our guest house Poeu pointed out the venue of the survey the next day, a wat (pagoda).

On Monday morning it rained heavily. After having breakfast, the three of us trudged through the rain and walked to the venue of the survey. Under normal conditions this could be a 5 to 10-minute walk but the rain slowed us down. The road ran parallel to the river so the view made the walk more bearable as well. We sat through the interviews and the focused group discussion of the morning. For lunch we ate some Laotian noodles again and went back to the guest house. As Ted and Vic napped, I planned the next day, when I will be alone.

At around 3PM we went to the Steung Treng Women’s Development Center (SWDC), the NGO that Michelle (Derrick’s wife) recommended that I visit. The NGO provided economic opportunities for women residents of Steung Treng through sericulture and silk weaving. The center was 4 kilometers away from the town center but the long drive was worth it when we got there. We were pleasantly surprised to meet Lilet, a VSO volunteer from the Philippines. Along with the friendly Khmer staff, we were shown the process of silk making, from raising silkworms to the finished products. Vic bought a silk scarf, while Ted and I bought silk passport jackets.

That night we had dinner with the survey team. We dined on grilled dried venison, wild boar stir-fried with basil and sour fish head soup. Ted and Vic returned to Phnom Penh early Tuesday morning. I had Laotian noodles again for breakfast then decided to walk to the survey venue. Alone, I relished the view and took my time because there was no rain; it was just a cool, overcast morning. By the time I got to the pagoda, I already had two river-inspired poems gestating in my head. I have posted them in my poetry blog. I stayed on the whole day, having lunch with the team.

For dinner the survey team and I went to a restaurant that purportedly served an excellent sukiyaki (or suki soup). While I didn’t particularly enjoy the grilled pork intestines, I liked the stir-fried eel, the grilled beef salad, and the soup itself. We did not eat any rice, but we were all stuffed. After dinner I said good-bye to the team, because I was set to return to Phnom Penh on Wednesday. I am to see them again in another province anyway, during the last leg of the field work.

At 4.30AM Wednesday I headed to Phnom Penh. Because of the rains during the last couple of days, the dirt road turned to mushy and slushy mud that sent many of the vehicles skidding. Good thing the driver of the van was very skilled. He drove very well, but his fondness for uttering choi may (the Khmer equivalent of fuck you) was a bit unnerving. 

I arrived here in Phnom Penh at around 12 noon; tired, but safe and sound, nonetheless.